INSIDE THE MACHINE
SUBLIMOTION

by Carlos Risco August 2014 Read in PDF format N3/2014
INSIDE THE MACHINE WITH SUBLIMOTION, PACO RONCERO HAS CREATED A NEW CONCEPT OF HIGH-CUISINE. WE CRASH INTO THIS RESTAURANT-THEATRE TO OBSERVE THE SHOW FROM BEHIND THE SCENES

Sublimotion is a real gift for just a lucky few, welcoming only twelve diners at a time. Whatever they see, whatever they feel, whatever they smell and –of course – whatever they taste, happens in a familial way and almost in privacy. To give life to this culinary and technological theatre, chef Paco Roncero directs a team of 25 people every night as if it were a theatrical play, and his team execute their magic to deliver delicious perfection. We arranged to meet at the door of the restaurant, located in a discreet wing of the Hard Rock Hotel in Playa d’en Bossa. To access the restaurant you enter through a disguised storage room and a service lift, which shakes in the darkness to give way to an immaculate hall where diners wash their hands in open hollows in the wall. At last, they enter the main room, with its intelligent table (it incorporates cyclones, smokers and shakers) and its white-washed walls on which 360 degree images are projected. It is the mothership of our awaited trip. The room turns into a library and, after a brief introduction, scents start to filtrate the space and over books, while three test tubes create a cocktail which shakes magically over the table. This will later be covered in olive oil and dry ice, transforming the room into different locations such as Central Park in New York for a delicious picnic, an orchard where butterflies fly freely, a sea where everything smells and feels like seawater, or into the depths of an inferno to taste delicious grilled meat with the table turned into a huge piece of ember. From the control room the team behind Sublimotion can see everything through cameras and the stage manager controls the kitchen and the projections. After desserts, the whole team comes out to have a toast with the diners who, excited after their wonderful journey, move to a private area to enjoy the rest of the night.

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